Video courtesy of The North Face
I caught up with Alex Honnold soon after his astounding, 1km high free solo climb of Freerider on El Cap. Just thinking about how he spent three hours climbing an overhanging rock face, with no rope, makes me giddy. But his experience has a lot to tell us about out learning how to staying calm in a crisis, and mastering a skill – this can transfer over into making our everyday lives more successful…
When I do get really scared I take a few deep breaths, try to relax, and carry on!
Photo: Jimmy Chin, Black Diamond PR
Alex Honnold is the world’s most famous rock climber. In 2018 he completed a lifelong mission to climb without ropes all the way up Yosemite’s iconic, 1,000m (3,000ft) El Capitan. But how does Alex Honnold climb free solo in the first place?
His ascent of Freerider, higher than the world’s tallest building, captured the imagination of the world. Climbing at a high level on difficult problems – including a sketchy ‘karate kick’ bouldering move across a nerve-jangling gap – for three hours seems super human to most.
And yet, he has spent years mastering his skills and earning his calm in the storm. I asked the man himself how Alex Honnold climbs free solo, in order to find out how his psychological approach can be applied to challenges in your own life…
(The images in this Q&A are by Jimmy Chin and were supplied by Black Diamond PR)
Many people wonder how Alex Honnold climbs free solo, up 1,000m rock faces, with no ropes. But I also wonder; why? What is it about the experience that’s makes it so compelling for you?
Free soloing can be quite fun and fast, the actual sensations of climbing are sometimes more pleasant than when you’re dragging a rope and gear behind you. But I think that really what I love is the test of mastery – I like climbing to feel serious sometimes and require the best of me.
I think the best strategy is a deep and well founded confidence that you can indeed do the thing that you’re trying to do.
It’s not enough to think that you can, you have to absolutely know, on a physical and rational level that the free solo that you’re attempting is well within your abilities. Then it all feels pretty normal.
Photo: Jimmy Chin, Black Diamond PR
I would define them as overcoming fear, but in order to do what’s required of you. I think there’s an important distinction with free soloing, which I wouldn’t really consider brave or courageous. I free solo for my own pleasure, so even though it can sometimes be scary, it’s still something that I willingly choose.
I think that bravery involves some degree of overcoming unelected fear, like running into a burning building to rescue someone. Presumably no one wants to run into the building, but with enough courage they can force themselves to do the right thing and assist someone in need.
It’s true that I did a hangboard session that afternoon, after I free soloed Freerider
Photo: Jimmy Chin, Black Diamond PR
Do you think people misunderstand feats like your ascent of Freerider in that they are the product of years spent mastering climbing techniques, physical training and the individual climbing moves on routes?
Is there a sense that a free solo like this is an expression of mastery over the details and style of a route, rather than an uncertain leap into the unknown, even though it’s absolutely uncharted territory and a generational leap of an achievement?
I think the film Free Solo does a great job of showing how much preparation and training went into the ascent so, hopefully, that will help with the common misperception that I just wandered up to a huge rock and decided to climb up it.
For me at least, free soloing is very much an expression of mastery, both of the climb and of myself… I try to make sure that the uncertainty is actually quite low – that’s the point of all the training and preparation.
So even though the climb might be very high stakes, it feels like a sure thing to me because I’m so well prepared for it. That certainly helps me maintain a sense of calm.
Did you really do a fingerboard session in your van after free soloing Freerider, and what is it that drives you on to keep continually improving?
Everyone asks about fear and death but I free solo because I love it. It makes me happy. It’s fun
Photo: Jimmy Chin, Black Diamond PR
What psychological approaches and techniques would you pass on to the readers of this blog, to help them improve their climbing, or carry through into their everyday lives?
I think that the one psychological approach that I’d like to pass on is for people to gradually but consistently expand their comfort zones (in climbing or in life). Or I suppose to sum that up more simply – “do hard things”.
I think that by consistently trying climbs that are a little bit different than what you’ve done before, whether that means taller, harder, in worse weather or on a different kind of rock, you will continue to learn and improve as a climber.
And I think that the process of self mastery can certainly apply to everyday life, and so much of climbing depends on regulating your own emotions and getting your body and mind to work together in harmony.
I think those are all lessons that can help in every aspect of life. Though I don’t think climbing is unique in that regard – I’m sure the same lessons could be learned through meditation or perhaps even a sport.
How do you face down fear?
Ideally, I prepare to the point that whatever I’m preparing for isn’t scary anymore. I think the easiest way to face fear is to just not be afraid to begin with.
But when I do get really scared I have to manage it the same way as anyone else – take a few deep breaths, try to relax, and carry on.
Finally, what’s the most misunderstood part of free soloing, from your perspective?
The levity of it. The fun. The joy in the movement. Everyone asks about fear and death, which is understandable, but I free solo because I love it. It makes me happy. It’s fun.
It’s not always a dialogue with death – it’s more like a playful way to more freely through the mountains.
For another climbing world first, check out my interview with Nims Purja, who smashed the World Record for climbing the world’s 14 peaks over 8,000m. Versions of my interview with Alex also appeared on RSNG.com and RedBull.com
If you’re looking for adventure then my destination reports, interviews with outdoor heroes and gear reviews will get you out there!
I’m always open to new ideas for an adventure and I am currently available for writing commissions, editing work, photography jobs and consultancy, through my own company, Ray Writing LTD. My experience covers active lifestyle, wellness, fitness, health, mindset and popular culture, as well as adventure writing and photography. And if you want a Fine Art Print then let me know!
matt@adventurefella.com
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